Few garments carry as rich and fascinating a history as the trench coat. Born from military necessity in the muddy trenches of World War I, this iconic piece has traversed battlefields, Hollywood sets, fashion runways, and city streets across more than a century. Understanding its remarkable journey enhances appreciation for the trench coat hanging in your own wardrobe.
This comprehensive exploration traces the trench coat's evolution from innovative weatherproof fabric to enduring fashion icon, revealing how each era has contributed to the garment we know today.
Origins: The Revolutionary Fabric
The trench coat's story begins not with the garment itself but with a revolutionary fabric. In 1879, a young draper's apprentice named Thomas Burberry invented gabardine—a tightly woven, water-resistant fabric created by waterproofing yarn before weaving rather than treating finished cloth.
This innovation proved transformative. Unlike the rubberised mackintoshes common at the time, gabardine was breathable, comfortable, and lighter weight while still providing excellent weather protection. Burberry's fabric attracted the attention of explorers, adventurers, and eventually military officials seeking better protective clothing for soldiers.
Early Military Adoption
Before World War I, British military officers wore heavy wool greatcoats that became waterlogged and cumbersome in wet conditions. Progressive officers began adopting lighter gabardine alternatives. Both Burberry and rival company Aquascutum (founded 1851) developed military-style coats that would eventually evolve into the trench coat we recognise today.
Aquascutum, meaning "water shield" in Latin, actually claims to have invented the first waterproof wool in 1853. Both companies contributed innovations that shaped trench coat development, and their rivalry drove continuous improvements in the garment.
World War I: Birth of an Icon
World War I transformed the gabardine military coat into the trench coat. The Western Front's infamous trench warfare created desperate need for practical, protective outerwear that could withstand months of exposure to mud, rain, and combat conditions.
Design Evolution Under Fire
The trench coat's distinctive features evolved from genuine military requirements:
- Epaulettes: Shoulder straps allowed officers to display rank insignia clearly, essential for battlefield command hierarchy.
- D-Rings: Originally attached to the belt for carrying equipment including swords, grenades, and maps.
- Storm Flap: The right-shoulder flap (gun flap) provided extra weather protection and padding when firing a rifle.
- Wrist Straps: Adjustable cuffs prevented rain and cold from entering the sleeves.
- Deep Pockets: Map pockets and hand-warmer pockets served essential practical purposes.
- Back Vent: Allowed ease of movement and accommodated horse riding.
- Raglan Sleeves: This construction provided greater range of motion crucial in combat situations.
The trench coat earned its name from the trenches where it proved invaluable. British officers in particular embraced the garment, and surviving soldiers returned home wearing their trench coats—beginning the garment's transition from military necessity to civilian fashion.
The Interwar Period: Civilian Adoption
Following World War I, returning soldiers continued wearing their trench coats in civilian life. The practical, weather-resistant garment suited post-war society's needs, and its military associations lent wearers an air of distinguished service.
Fashion Takes Notice
During the 1920s and 1930s, the trench coat began its transformation from purely functional garment to fashion statement. Key developments included:
- Women adopting the trench coat as part of the era's trend toward more practical, masculine-influenced fashion
- Refinement of civilian versions with less overtly military features
- Expansion of colour options beyond traditional khaki
- Introduction of more fitted silhouettes for fashion-forward wearers
Detective Fiction and Early Cinema
The trench coat's association with mystery and intrigue began in this period. Detective fiction of the era clothed protagonists in trench coats, establishing visual shorthand for the clever, capable investigator. Early cinema embraced this imagery, cementing the trench coat's place in popular culture.
World War II: Return to Service
World War II saw the trench coat return to active military duty. Both British and American forces used trench coats, and the garment became associated with resistance fighters, spies, and wartime heroism through films and newsreels of the era.
Post-war, this second generation of veterans further normalised trench coat wear in civilian life. The garment became established as appropriate professional attire, particularly for businessmen, journalists, and government officials.
Hollywood's Golden Age
The 1940s and 1950s saw Hollywood transform the trench coat from practical outerwear into symbol of glamour, mystery, and sophistication. Several iconic films established the trench coat's enduring cultural significance.
Casablanca (1942)
Humphrey Bogart's portrayal of Rick Blaine, frequently seen in his trench coat, created perhaps the most enduring image of trench coat style. The final airport scene—with Bogart in trench coat amid atmospheric fog—became one of cinema's most iconic moments and forever linked the garment with romantic mystery.
Film Noir Era
The film noir genre embraced the trench coat entirely. Private investigators, mysterious strangers, and morally ambiguous protagonists universally wore trench coats. The garment's ability to conceal while maintaining sophistication made it perfect for noir's shadowy aesthetics.
Films featuring trench coats heavily influenced fashion. After Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), women's trench coat sales surged. Audrey Hepburn's elegant styling of the garment introduced a new generation to its versatility.
The 1960s-1980s: Fashion Reinvention
The latter twentieth century saw designers reimagine the trench coat while traditional houses maintained classic designs.
Designer Interpretations
Fashion houses began experimenting with the trench coat silhouette:
- Yves Saint Laurent introduced luxurious fabrics and sleeker cuts
- Japanese designers deconstructed and reconstructed traditional elements
- Italian designers added bold colours and unconventional materials
- British designers honoured heritage while modernising proportions
Street Style Adoption
The 1980s saw the trench coat embraced by street fashion movements. Worn oversized, cinched dramatically, or styled unconventionally, the garment proved adaptable to emerging subcultures while maintaining mainstream appeal.
Modern Era: Contemporary Relevance
Today's trench coat market offers unprecedented variety while the classic design remains remarkably relevant.
Technical Innovation
Modern trench coats benefit from technical fabric advances:
- Gore-Tex and similar membranes provide genuine waterproofing with breathability
- Lightweight insulation allows warmth without bulk
- Sustainable fabrics address environmental concerns
- Performance treatments enhance durability and stain resistance
Style Evolution
Contemporary designers continue reinterpreting the trench coat:
- Oversized proportions for relaxed, modern silhouettes
- Cropped versions for casual wear
- Unexpected materials including leather, vinyl, and technical fabrics
- Bold colours and prints beyond traditional neutrals
- Gender-fluid designs reflecting contemporary fashion values
The trench coat's longevity stems from its perfect balance of function and style. Few garments serve so effectively as both practical weatherwear and fashion statement. This versatility ensures the trench coat remains relevant regardless of passing trends.
The Trench Coat in Australia
While the trench coat originated in Britain's wet climate, it found enthusiastic adoption in Australia. Early twentieth-century Australian fashion followed British trends closely, and the trench coat suited the professional aspirations of a developing nation.
Today, the trench coat remains popular in Australian wardrobes, particularly in southern states where cooler, wetter conditions mirror the garment's original environment. Melbourne's fashion-conscious population embraces both classic and contemporary interpretations, while Sydney's style scene favours lighter, more casual variations.
Looking Forward
The trench coat's future seems assured. Its functional excellence, cultural resonance, and adaptability to contemporary reinterpretation ensure continued relevance. Sustainable fashion movements find the trench coat appealing as a long-lasting, versatile wardrobe investment that transcends seasonal trends.
As we approach the trench coat's second century, this remarkable garment continues evolving while honouring the military heritage and innovative fabric technology that created it. Whether you wear a classic khaki gabardine or a contemporary technical interpretation, you participate in over a hundred years of fashion history.